London – The West End is synonymous with all that is good in the theatre and film world and certainly for the tourist and wealthy investors the lure of Piccadilly and Leicester Square has always been a strong one. Little mention was generally made of the east end of London and its identity and location were not of great concern. In recent years, however, there have been a number of developments which are more and more bringing the area to the east of the Tower of London into sharp focus and noteworthy prominence.
Always a ‘down to earth’ working area with much industry centred on the docks and food markets it never enjoyed popular acclaim. Indeed the popular imagination associated the area with immigration, overcrowding, disease, and criminality. This an ironic appraisal when considering that the true Londoners are considered to be born within the sound of the Bow Bell church and the cockney dialect is most diffuse along the riverbank communities heading out to the Thames estuary. The history of east London is a fascinating one and much of its evolution is to do with its port industries and labour force. In the 19th century the West Indies docks was the world’s busiest port area and attracted workers from around the globe. Later still it was also the home of the suffragette movement and Sylvia Parkhurst’s supporters were confirmed eastenders. However, with the decline of shipping in the second half of the 20th century and the intense competition from other cities and other countries the fate of the east end looked a bleak one. The fact that it was a target ‘A’ area for war bombing with consequent devastation and loss of life did not augur well for its future. Indeed it became a hotbed of crime and prostitution and notorious criminals such as the Kray twins of the sixties, they having a tendency to eliminate their rivals in rather nasty fashion, did not do any favours for the area’s reputation.
So, what has brought about the change of fortune in the last decade, which now sees the wind of change and fortune blowing through the communities of east London? Investment and accessibility are key factors. Reclaiming disused areas such as St Katharine’s Dock, immediately to the east of Tower Bridge on its northern bank, and Canary Wharf, further to the east again in the direction of Greenwich, has been part of the secret. SK Dock is now a fascinating mixture of business premises, eating and entertainment venues and a marina welcoming the boats of many overseas visitors. The wharf area has become skyscraper paradise with the world’s largest corporate banks investing and creating a whole new financial district. Employment, trade, and entertainment opportunities mean that the locals themselves are enjoying far healthier times and the established immigrant communities are able to prosper thanks to their indigenous cuisines and clothes, art and design markets attracting tourists from afar.
To add to this good news is the fact that the O2 Arena, it emerging from the not over-successful millennium Dome experience, has become a roaring success and is now the world’s busiest music venue. Located on the riverside in north Greenwich it adds to the fascination of Greenwich in general, a village celebrating a mixture of street markets and world class maritime attractions – certainly a must for any visitor to London is the boat trip from Westminster Bridge to Greenwich, and it will be no surprise to hear that it is the east London rivermen who provide the fascinating commentary along the way. And of course the eastern parts of London were firmly in the world’s spotlight in the 2012 Olympics, the Olympic Park being proudly located in a true cockney speaking area! Improved infrastructure and logistic connections, even an Alpine style aerial cablecar lift system, have assured that it is never too difficult to get to the other part of town and with the advent of the Jubilee underground line and the London Docklands Railway accessibility has never been easier.
Yes, the self-esteem and the popularity of eastenders is soaring. As if to reflect the changing times it is the television soap ‘The Eastenders’, the storyline of which examines the domestic and professional lives of the people who live and work in the area, which has become Britain’s most viewed series! And as for the future there are intelligent plans in place. An example of forward thinking is for example seen in the fact that many Universities are establishing a campus site in the area and this in turn attracts both UK and overseas students who can take advantage of the cheaper accommodation prices and ‘new-builds’ in the east of London. Also it is not only the impoverished student who wants to come to east London, for the riverbank accommodations have become something of a trend essential, and for many young professionals and personalities from the world of entertainment ‘a pad by the river’ is the preferred choice.
All in all it is a fascinating case study of urban regeneration and a sure indication that there is more to see in London than just the West End. In fact the two areas are being brought closer together. The South Bank walk from Westminster takes one as far as Tower Bridge, one passing such treasures as the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre and from there transferring to the north side of the river the Thames footpath opens up a whole host of visitor possibilities. Never have the words of the 18th century diarist Samuel Johnson rung truer for he proclaimed ‘When a man is tired of London, a man is tired of life; for in London there is all that life can afford.’
